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Rehwa Society : The Soulful Threads of Maheshwar

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 Rehwa Society

The Soulful Threads of Maheshwar

Rehwa Society in Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh is a non profit organisation established in 1978 by Richard Holkar aka. Shivajirao Holkar and Sally Holkar. The primary mission of the society is to support and uplift the weaving community of Maheshwar. This society came into being to revive this age-old craft and provide livelyhood to the local weavers. The three units of rehwa society operate within the historic ahilya fort and has grown to evolve and include a significant number of weavers and looms which has helped in gaining recognition for their exquisite Maheshwari textiles. The Holkar royal family of Maheshwar moved the capital of the state from Indore to Maheshwar in 1767. During the tenure of Rani Ahilyabai Holkar, a wise and reverend ruler; she transformed Maheshwar into a centre of culture, philanthropy and administration until her death in 1795. She was a prolific leader and queen who adorned this city with numerous temples, ghats and the magnificent fort along the Narmada river. Her reign is remembered as a golden period of peace and prosperity and her legacy continues to signify the identity of Maheshwar and the exquisite Maheshwari sarees she patronised. Her descendants maintain a strong bond and connection with the craft even today by the Ahilya Fort now operating as a Heritage Hotel owned by Maharaja Shivaji Rao Holkar.


After the establishment of Rehwa society in Maheahwar in the year 1978 a journey towards reviving the declineing craft of the Handloom weaving was undertaken by Richard Holkar and Sally Holkar. Starting with just 8 looms and a small group of weavers from the Meru community the Rehwa society started to operate from within the historic establishment of Ahilya Fort. Over the years, Rehwa society has stedily expanded its weaver family which now consists of  250 weavers and 110 looms.

 

Originates in the 18th century, the sarees of Maheshwar owe the creation and prosperity to Rani Ahilyabai Holkar. A legend says that she herself designed the first Maheshwari saree. Initially bloomed under the patriotic age of the Holkar royal family intended as gifts for Royal guests these sarees soon became a symbol of elegance royalty and identity. The designs on the pallu as well as the borders were often inspired by the intricate architecture present in the Maheshwar Fort, Narmada river, Ahilyeshwar temple and Narmada Ghat. More than thousand motifs like the chatai, Hira along with distinctive stripes on the pallu with unique motives are the hallmarks of Maheshwari weaving tradition. A unique feature showcasing the viewers skill is the reversible border also known as the Bugadi which allows the saree to be worn on either side. The craft of weaving Maheshwari saree has long been a primary source of livelihood for many families in Maheshwar. Organizations like Rehwa Society play a crucial role in sustaining and reviving this craft. Priced for their unique blend of silk and cotton Garbh Reshmi and Neel Reshmi sarees which gives a lightweight, comfortable feel and are suitable for various climates and occasions these sarees hold beauty that is encorporated with traditional motifs and contemporary designs through the dobby. These have continued in the modern fashion and trend oriented landscape.

The 64 Weavers in Rehwa Society have dedicated generations to this craft. Designer and many fashion houses increasingly appreciate the fabric for its versatility and connection to the rich textile heritage of India which helps in elevating the significance of Maheshwari sarees to global platform. The future generation of these extremely skilled articles are now proud of their roots and want to continue their ancestral craft. In conversation with the master ji, Dada Amrit; ji he explained how Rehwa Society is like his family. He has been here since 1978 when the Rehwa Society was established from scratch. Nearing 50 years of his service at Rehwa he is the most dedicated weaver in the society. The knowledge he and compasses is truly commendable.

 

A very unique textile tour has been initiated by the Rehwa Society to educate and make the common people aware of this craft. Minimal fee is charged for an entire visit of the unit along with the explanation of how a saree is crafted from the very basics. The entire donation received through the textile tours is dedicated to the Ahilya school which is established in Maheshwar for the education of the Weavers' children. This wholesome initiative not only provides a backbone to the weavers community but also provides assurance of future growth and prosperity of their children.

- Sasmita Kadam

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